Deep Dive Into The History of Audemars Piguet Watches

Updated: 7th January 2025

Audemars Piguet: A Legacy of Tradition and Innovation

Audemars Piguet, a name synonymous with luxury and precision in the world of horology, has been crafting exceptional timepieces since its inception in 1875. Founded by childhood friends Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, a region renowned for its rich horological history and skilled craftsmen, the company has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking, establishing itself as a true icon in the industry. This article delves into the rich history of Audemars Piguet, exploring its various watch collections, innovations, and commitment to sustainability.

A History of Horological Excellence

From the very beginning, Audemars Piguet distinguished itself by specializing in the creation of complicated watches, a strategic decision that set them apart from other watchmakers and laid the foundation for their reputation as masters of complicated watchmaking [3]. In 1882, the company introduced its first pocket watch featuring a perpetual calendar, a testament to its dedication to complex mechanisms. This was followed by another groundbreaking achievement in 1892 – the world's first minute-repeating wristwatch [3]. This innovative timepiece, capable of chiming the time on demand, showcased the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological ingenuity.

Audemars Piguet continued to make significant strides in the world of watchmaking throughout the early 20th century. In 1899, the company unveiled the "Universelle" pocket watch, a grand complication featuring an impressive 21 functions, including a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and chronograph [3]. In 2006, they introduced the Tradition of Excellence Cabinet No. 5, a timepiece that showcased exceptional complications and featured the Audemars Piguet escapement, a high-efficiency mechanism that reduced energy loss and enhanced the power reserve [3]. Further demonstrating its innovative spirit, Audemars Piguet created the first jump hour wristwatch in 1921, the thinnest pocket watch caliber in 1925, the first skeletonized pocket watch in 1934, and the first ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon watch in 1986 [1].

The company faced a significant challenge in the 1970s with the rise of quartz watches [1]. The quartz crisis, as it came to be known, was a period of significant decline in the demand for mechanical watches due to the emergence of cheaper and more accurate quartz watches from Asian countries. This crisis affected the entire watchmaking industry, forcing many traditional watchmakers to adapt or perish. However, Audemars Piguet responded with a stroke of genius – the Royal Oak. Designed by Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak was a luxury sports watch crafted from stainless steel, a bold move at a time when precious metals were the norm for high-end watches [1]. Its octagonal bezel with eight exposed screws and integrated bracelet became an instant icon, solidifying Audemars Piguet's position as a leader in the industry [7]. The Royal Oak's success can be attributed to its unique design, use of stainless steel, and high price point, which challenged conventions and appealed to a new generation of watch enthusiasts [2].

When the founders, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, passed away in 1918 and 1919 respectively, the company faced a period of transition. However, the business remained in the capable hands of the founders' sons, Paul Louis Audemars and Paul Edward Piguet, who continued the legacy of innovation and excellence [9].

Audemars Piguet Collections: A Diverse Range of Masterpieces

Audemars Piguet offers a diverse range of watch collections, each with its own distinct character and appeal [10].

  • Royal Oak: The flagship collection, known for its iconic octagonal bezel, sporty elegance, and intricate complications.

  • Royal Oak Offshore: A bolder and more robust interpretation of the Royal Oak, designed for those with an adventurous spirit.

  • Royal Oak Concept: A platform for experimentation and innovation, featuring cutting-edge materials and avant-garde designs.

  • Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet: A contemporary collection that blends traditional watchmaking with modern aesthetics.

  • \master: A tribute to the brand's heritage, featuring reinterpreted vintage designs with modern updates.

Price Range: An Investment in Luxury

Audemars Piguet watches are renowned for their exclusivity and craftsmanship, and their prices reflect this. The price range for Audemars Piguet watches can vary significantly depending on the model, materials, and complications [11]. Entry-level models, such as the Royal Oak Automatic in stainless steel, can start around $20,000 [11]. More complex models with precious metals and complications, like the Royal Oak Tourbillon in white gold, can exceed $100,000 [11]. Limited editions and special collaborations can command even higher prices, reaching well into the hundreds of thousands or even millions of dollars.


Collaborations and Special Editions

Audemars Piguet has a history of collaborating with artists, designers, and other brands to create unique and exclusive timepieces. These collaborations often result in limited-edition watches that are highly sought after by collectors [10]. Some notable collaborations include:

  • Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon "COMPANION" limited edition: This collaboration with artist KAWS resulted in a 43 mm titanium Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon that reinterprets Haute Horlogerie through the artist's distinctive lens. The watch features KAWS' signature "COMPANION" figures integrated into the design, adding a playful and contemporary touch to the classic Royal Oak Concept [10].

  • Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon: This limited-edition watch, designed in collaboration with Haute Couture designer Tamara Ralph, seamlessly blends high fashion and haute horlogerie. The watch features intricate details inspired by Ralph's designs, such as the use of delicate lace patterns and gemstone accents, creating a timepiece that is both elegant and technically impressive [10].

  • Royal Oak Concept with John Mayer: This collaboration with musician John Mayer resulted in a watch that reflects his personal style and appreciation for fine watchmaking. The watch features a minimalist design with a striking green dial, a color chosen by Mayer himself, and a unique combination of materials, including titanium and ceramic [10].

Sustainability and Social Responsibility

Audemars Piguet is committed to sustainability and social responsibility, recognizing the importance of minimizing its environmental impact and contributing to the well-being of communities [13]. The company's sustainability efforts include:

  • Renewable Energy: Audemars Piguet's manufacturing facilities utilize renewable energy sources, such as solar and hydroelectric power, to reduce its carbon footprint [13].

  • Waste Reduction: The company has implemented comprehensive waste reduction strategies, including recycling and reusing materials whenever possible. This includes actively working with partners within its value chain to continuously improve measurements and reductions of waste [13].

  • Sustainable Packaging: Audemars Piguet uses recycled and biodegradable materials for its packaging to minimize environmental impact [13].

  • Responsible Sourcing: The company is committed to responsible sourcing of materials, including gold, ensuring ethical and sustainable practices throughout its supply chain [15].

  • Reduced Travel: Audemars Piguet is committed to reducing travel by 33% by 2025 as part of its efforts to reduce its carbon footprint [16].

In addition to its environmental initiatives, Audemars Piguet actively supports social responsibility through the Audemars Piguet Foundation [14]. Established in 1992, the foundation focuses on forest conservation, environmental education, and preserving traditional knowledge [14]. One notable initiative of the foundation is the "International Evergreen Broad-Leafed Forest Culture Symposium," a conference that brings together tropical forest specialists and includes awareness activities for children [17].

Overall, Audemars Piguet's commitment to sustainability is evident in its various initiatives, from using renewable energy and reducing waste to responsible sourcing and supporting social causes. These efforts contribute to a more sustainable and responsible luxury watch industry [13].

Audemars Piguet Customer Service and Warranty

Audemars Piguet offers the AP Coverage Service, a 2-year warranty program that provides customers with peace of mind and protection for their valuable timepieces. This service reflects the brand's commitment to customer satisfaction and its dedication to ensuring the longevity and optimal performance of its watches [10].

Watchmaking Complications and Innovations

Audemars Piguet has a long and distinguished history of pioneering watchmaking complications and innovations [18]. Some of the brand's notable achievements include:

  • Minute Repeater: Audemars Piguet created the world's first minute-repeating wristwatch in 1892, a testament to its mastery of complex mechanisms. This groundbreaking invention allowed wearers to hear the time chimed on demand, showcasing the brand's ability to miniaturize complex mechanisms and integrate them into wristwatches [19].

  • Grandes Complications: The company has consistently produced Grande Complication watches, combining intricate complications like minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and chronographs in a single timepiece. These watches represent the pinnacle of horological artistry and demonstrate Audemars Piguet's expertise in creating highly complex and technically sophisticated timepieces [18].

  • Ultra-Thin Movements: Audemars Piguet has developed ultra-thin movements, pushing the boundaries of miniaturization and precision. This includes the development of Calibre 2120/2800 in 1978, the thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar in the world at the time, which marked a significant step in the comeback of complicated mechanisms after the quartz crisis [1].

  • Skeletonization: The company was a pioneer in skeletonized watches, showcasing the intricate inner workings of its movements. This technique involves removing non-essential material from the movement plates and bridges, creating a visually stunning display of mechanical artistry [2].

  • Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher: Developed in collaboration with Michael Schumacher, this watch features a groundbreaking mechanism for measuring consecutive lap times. This innovation was a first in the watchmaking industry, allowing racing enthusiasts to accurately track lap times with a mechanical wristwatch [20].

  • Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin: Unveiled in 2022 to celebrate the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary, this watch features the new Calibre 2968, an ultra-thin flying tourbillon movement adorned with a novel combination of traditional and contemporary hand-crafted decorations [20].

  • Vintage Chronographs: Audemars Piguet's vintage chronograph wristwatches are extremely rare, with only 307 units produced before 1980. These watches are highly sought after by collectors and represent a significant part of the brand's horological legacy [5].

Conclusion: A Timeless Legacy

Audemars Piguet's enduring legacy is built on a foundation of tradition, innovation, and an unwavering pursuit of excellence. From its early focus on complicated watches, which set it apart in the world of horology, to the groundbreaking introduction of the Royal Oak, which redefined luxury sports watches, Audemars Piguet has consistently demonstrated its ability to adapt, innovate, and create timepieces that capture the imagination of watch enthusiasts worldwide. The company's commitment to innovation is evident in its numerous achievements, including the development of ultra-thin movements, skeletonized watches, and groundbreaking complications like the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher. Furthermore, Audemars Piguet's dedication to sustainability, demonstrated through its use of renewable energy, waste reduction strategies, responsible sourcing practices, and social initiatives, sets a positive example for the luxury watch industry. With its rich history, diverse collections, and unwavering commitment to excellence, Audemars Piguet continues to solidify its position as a true leader in the world of haute horlogerie.

Works cited

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